Modern glove making started in 1834, when Xavier Jouvin developed universal sizes for this product in France. Before this moment, each glove maker was manufacturing according to their own sizes. Mr Jouvin spent about five years developing his great idea that would standardize sizes in traditional glove making.
It may be difficult to believe the main measure to know sizes is wideness of hand on knuckles instead of length of fingers but it is. In addition, Jouvin used a complex measurement called “Pied de Roi” (in Spanish “pie de letras”) which does not correspond to any of actual measurements (feet, inch, cm…)
Standard sizes for ladies are from 6M (six and a half) to 8M (eight and a half) and from 8 to 10 for men. Sometimes, we are requested to manufacture bigger or smaller sizes, too.
In case any of us had a glove bought thirty years ago, it could be size 7 ¾ because in the past a quarter of a size was also considered and manufactured.
Traditional glove makers go on using Jouvin sizes (french sizes) while Asian production is marked with S, M or L.
A glove manufactured in 8 steps:
- Leather is chosen in a rigorous selection process in best tanneries based on its texture, grain and roundness. Santacana buys only Spanish or Pittards lambskin ensuring good quality and great flexibility to our gloves.
- Leather is then carefully sorted and inspected, before passing through the hands of the senior cutter. The leather is then cut into square shaped forms, stretched for maximum length, taking care to leave enough width to allow for the process of making the gloves. Then each glove is marked in suede noting the order and size.
- The hand cut shapes which will be transformed into gloves are all gathered together and matched: the right and left hands, the pieces that go in between the fingers( fourchettes) giving them depth, as well as the thumb and finishing strips.
- One person takes all the Hand cut pieces marking and numbering them with a chalk powder. All the constituent parts of the glove are cut from a single piece of leather. Fabricating them in this way ensures that they retain their unique character while allowing for variations in the leather.
- The pieces are then placed on a metal mould to be formed by the century old press, each piece is carefully trimmed and shaped, the body of the glove, the thumb, and between the fingers. The moulds used are exclusively made for each glove maker.
- Finally the gloves are ready to be assembled either by hand or by machine. The Individual pieces become gloves transformed by the ancient machines and savoir-faire. First the thumb piece is fixed to the body of the glove, then the fingers are attached and any accessories and then we see the true shape of the glove for the first time.
- The penultimate step is to add the lining, which can be offered in different materials (wool, silk, cashmere…)
- During the last step, the gloves are ironed by the famous ‘ warm hands ‘ they are a peculiar form of iron that uses electrical resistance to smooth the leather and fix the final form.
Ceremonial gloves are a simply design and their beauty is simply good quality, attractive colors and meticulous workmanship. Fashion gloves Santacana designs include different trims to offer a superb final product, different and great to wear for any occasion : mink pompoms or cuff, curly lambskin , fox fur for amazing cuffs in different colors, Mongolian goat fur for cuffs, etc.
Leather is a natural product with special characteristics that make it comfortable to wear, and give it great strength and flexibility. Because it is a natural product, with its own unique variations, nuances of colour and markings, every piece has its own individual characteristics and natural beauty. Together with an attractive design, a leather glove become a private complement, just like a second skin.